Tiramisu

I realized today that my only copy of this recipe is from the original issue of Fine Cooking (May 1999) when it was published.  If that goes missing I will never forgive myself, so now here, I have a backup.  Joanne Chang was a former economist with a startup Boston bakery when the article was published.  Today she is a respected chef; I even saw her on Throwdown doing sticky buns (she beat Bobby Flay easily).

I'm making this for Father's Day dessert.

You can make the sponge yourself, which makes all the difference.  Or you can cheat, and use lady fingers (the dried savoiardi are better than the fresh ones) and just do the filling.  I admit to doing that frequently, and it's still delicious! 

Another change is that sometimes I use half Kahlua and half sweet Marsala (the latter is traditional).

Finally, my grocery store cuts the price of the mascarpone when it's close to its expiration date.  I've paid as little as 99 cents for an 8.8 ounce container!  It can be frozen and thawed successfully.

serves ten

For the coffee-flavored sponge cake:

4 eggs, separated
2/3 cup sugar, divided
1/4 cup hot brewed espresso
4 1/2 ounce (1 cup) all-purpose flour
pinch salt

For the mascarpone filling:

4 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup coffee liquor such as Kahlua (*see my note above)
pinch salt
3/4 cup mascarpone
1/2 cup heavy cream

For assembly:

1 cup hot brewed espresso
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate

For the sponge cake:

Heat the oven to 350.  Line a rimmed pan or jelly roll pan measuring 14x11 or 15x10 (or close to those measurements) with parchment.  Using a stand mixer with its whisk attachment or a hand mixer, beat the egg yolks, 1/3 cup of the sugar  and the hot espresso on high until thick and voluminous, at least 6 minutes.  In another bowl and with clean beaters, whisk the egg whites on medium speed.  When they reach the soft-peak stage, slowly add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar with the mixer running.  Increase the speed to medium high and beat until the whites are smooth and glossy with peaks that hold their shape without drooping; another 1 to 2 minutes.  Fold one-third of the whites into the yolk mixture to lighten them and then gently fold in the rest of the whites.

Sift the flour and salt over the mixture and fold it in gently.  Spread the batter evenly on the prepared sheet pan.  Bake until the center of the cake springs back when lightly pressed and the cake doesn't stick to your fingers 12-14 minutes.  Remove from the oven and invert it onto a cooling rack.  Gently peel off the parchment and allow the cake to cool completely.

For the filling:

Set a pan of warm water to simmer and fill a large bowl with ice.  In a medium stainless-steel bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, coffee liquor and salt.  Set the bowl over, but not touching, the simmering water and whisk until the mixture thickens, the whisk leaves ribbons trailing off of it and you can see the bottom of the bowl when you scrape the whisk along the bottom; 6 to 7 minutes.  Cool the yolk mixture by setting the bowl on the ice bath and whisking the mixture occasionally.  Meanwhile, whisk together the cream and mascarpone until it holds peaks.  When the yolk mixture is cool, gently fold in the cream mixture until combined.  Keep the mixture cool.

For assembly:

Divide the sponge cake into thirds (three rectangles about 4.5x11 or 5x10 inches).  Lay one of the cake rectangles on the bottom of a rectangular pan (I use a Pyrex baking dish, or a glass loaf pan if I use the lady fingers).  Brush the top with one-third of the hot espresso.  Spread just under half of the mascarpone filling over the cake.  Grate one third of the chocolate on top of the mascarpone.  Repeat with another layer of cake, espresso, filling and chocolate.  Top with the last layer of cake, brush on the last of the coffee, spread on a very thin layer of mascarpone and grate the rest of the chocolate on top.  Refrigerate several ours or overnight before serving.  Slice and serve.